A Crisp Autumn Float on the Eleven Point River

A Crisp Autumn Float on the Eleven Point River

The 11 Point, a class I river, is not for novices as it flows sharply around curve after curve presenting maneuvering challenges! We canoed from Cane Bluff access to Riverton Access at the Hwy 160 bridge, a distance of a little over 26 miles enjoying 2 ½ days of the crisp, clear and cool autumn season.

The 11 Point is a quiet river designated a National Scenic and Wild River on the edge of the Mark Twain National Forest near Alton, Missouri.  There are several canoe rental/shuttle companies in the area with reasonable prices. We chose Huffsteder’s because they are located at the take out point so we didn’t have to shuttle our car anywhere – They shuttled us and our gear in a van to the put in spot.

As we started the trip, we remarked on how quiet the river was and the multitude of wildlife – bald eagles, otters, mink, snakes, and the ever present kingfishers and great blue herons.  By the end of the trip we had even scared up 5 beautiful male wood ducks and watched a deer crossing the river a hundred feet away.  Azul, our Australian Shepherd, made an excellent traveling companion, sitting between Doug’s legs and patiently observing the details of the river without barking at the wildlife.

The banks were forested with sycamore trees.  We don’t remember seeing so many sycamore in one place.  But, a KY native once told us that the presence of sycamores means there’s a spring nearby so we guess you could say there were springs nearby everywhere!  The Eleven Point is famous for its springs.

We basked in the crisp, and bright blue clear skies, but it seemed that we were forever canoeing into the sunrise or sunset. It was only when we realized that the autumn sun would never fully rise overhead; it would always be on the horizon that we understood. That autumn sun played beautifully with the rippled surface, glistening and blinding us as we tried to figure out the best path through rapids.

The river from Cane Bluff to Greer was so shallow that we spent much time dragging our canoe over the pebbly bottom – it felt like hard work and was really slow.  So as we were approaching the place where Greer Springs joins the river, we relaxed into it!  Yeah!  The river’s volume would increase as over 200 million gallons of water flow out of the spring each day!  Greer Springs is the second largest spring in Missouri.   Hopefully there would be fewer places to scrape bottom.  The aquamarine colors were an added bonus to the river at each spot where springs joined the river.  After Greer Spring, we noticed very light green clumps of plant that were sometimes floating and other times secured to the bottom.  It looked very much like iridescent water cress!  Our research proved that it was water cress!! Nasturtium officinale.   The literature says it is often found downstream from springs because of the cold, alkaline properties of the river at that point.  It is also listed as a noxious and invasive species!

We were going to camp the first night at Greer, but the camping area was too far from the river, and after a tiring first day, we didn’t relish portaging all our belongings ¼ mile.  So we kept going and camped probably a mile past Greer on a sand bar, accomplishing just 8 miles that day.  After all her patience in the boat, Azul exploded with energy on dry land; digging in the sand and attacking the briars.  We were glad she could expel that energy before she curled up in a corner of the tent for the night! That early evening several canoers passed our campsite.  Most canoers were also enjoying fishing.

The next day we canoed from our campsite to Greenbriar Float Camp.  As we canoed we reflected that the river was not for novices.  There were many deadfalls across the river diverting the flow. Even though there weren’t many rapids, the stream of the water always seemed to push you into deadfalls, as it flowed sharply through curve after curve. 

The float camps were marked, and were usually on a side stream/gully. They were sometimes pretty mucky and looked uninviting.  Yet, the “boat deck” provided a place to disembark and the ability to unload supplies easily.

Green Briar Float Camp was right on the edge of the 11 Point with a boat deck. We had the camp to ourselves under beautiful huge oak trees.  A fire ring, picnic table and vaulted toilet were provided.  There were camps enough for 4 groups.

The next morning we took a side trip to Boze Spring and enjoyed the power of the water as it flowed over the abandoned mill’s stone dam. The rusty turbine and abandoned mill were evidence of the importance of the river to the early communities in Missouri.  We were only 2 miles from our takeout.   Riverton has a good boat launch right by the bridge and our car was parked just up the road.  

We finished our canoe trip with a steep hike down to Greer Springs, to see where all this water was coming from, with a side visit to the mill (uphill from the springs on private property) which is in the process of being restored.  I cannot think of a better way to spend a few days in October!  Clear flowing water, crisp blue skies, in the midst of natural beauty.

Eleven Point River Map Information:

Missouricanoe.org/river-maps/eleven-point.html  

gives a mile by mile description of where there are access points, springs, and float camps.

Missouriscenicrivers.com/elevenpointrivermap.jpg  

This map was designed by Walden Jost.  It is colorful, has GPS coordinates and a good legend.