The
Northern Woods on a National Scenic River
A
Quiet Autumn on the Namekagon, Wisconsin
Oh,
the northern woods! A lovely and quiet time in autumn, but quiet
doesn't mean it is without it's own adventures!! We're talking about
wildlife, hidden boulders, low bridges, colors and wind blowing
upstream.
In
planning the trip with our camping buddies we decided to take it easy
and do 62 miles in 5 days, from the town of Hayward in Sawyer County
(mile marker 66.1) to Namekagon Trail Landing (mile marker 4.8) in
Burnett County. We shuttled our own cars because it was the end of
the tourist season and most shuttling services had already closed.
Shuttling took two hours. So we camped at the landing in Hayward
before even hitting the water. If you want easy canoe camping, this
is it!! Vaulted toilets, fire ring, picnic tables, benches and a
dock. PLUS, within walking distance of two different restaurants to
choose from:
Flat
Creek Lodge https://flatcreekhotel.com/restuarant-bar
or
Steak Lodge https://www.steakhouseandlodge.com/dining-menu
.
Since,
we were in the middle of the Covid crisis, we decided to carry out
our order and dived into a meal of Walleye at our picnic table along
the Namekagon River.
 |
The Dock at Hayward Landing
Photo by Debbie Braaksma |
 |
Getting an Early Start
Photo by Debbie Braaksma
|
Camping
right at the landing allowed us to get an early start the next
morning. The first mile of the trip was dotted with houses and
seasonal cottages, but we soon left them behind. Is autumn always so
amazing in the northern woods? The mixture of various conifers,
quaking aspens, birch, and red maples seem to increase the beauty. We don't experience these same forest species
in Kentucky. The colors became more vivid each day, with the sunny
skies and the cool weather creating an uncommon tranquility. And to
think that the main highway was just 100's of meters away.
 |
| The Beginning of Fall Colors |
Every
so often that tranquility was cracked due to trains, or loud engines,
but it was just a reminder how you can be in such beauty while so
close to society's busyness. The river was clean, clear with no
trash. Even though we understand this a popular river with inner-tubers in
the summer, you wouldn't know it in the fall. Our first day included
playful rapids causing us to be alert as rocks were abundant and a
chute (right after Stinnett Landing Mile marker 57.7) that was fun
but not technical. The river was often too shallow for a loaded canoe
causing us to scrape bottom many times and sometimes we needed to get
out and pull the canoe.
Each
day our lunch stop came with a surprise. During our first lunch our
conversation stopped because we heard sounds like drums, but way out
here? What was it? As we were asking each other “what could that
be?” a pair of Trumpeter Swans swept into view, taking off from
the water with raucous honks. Wow!
At
the end of each day, we tallied our sightings including many Bald
Eagles. The first day netted two bald eagles, 2 trumpeter swans,
wood ducks, a few turtles, groups of common mergansers and beaver
dams. We also tallied the number of people on the river. Zero! We
camped at Mile Marker 52.1 after canoeing 14 miles. We preferred the
group camp sites because they included a picnic table along with the
“throne” and fire ring.
 |
| The Throne |
Camp
sites were pretty evenly spaced along the river – one at least
every two to three miles. But contact the local National Park
Service because the maps are not always up to date and several
campsites listed on different maps have been removed. Camps at mile
markers 25.3, 21.2, 9.3 were closed and perhaps others that we
missed.
We
relied heavily on the detailed maps of www.wisconsintrailguide.com
which our camping buddy had laminated and put together on a ring
(pretty cool idea)plus
www.nps.gov/sacn/planyourvisit/maps.htm
Whoa!
Our second day started with what we came to call “Hidden Boulder
Rapids” just before Springbrook Landing. We hit a hidden boulder
and stuck, swung sideways and hit a second rock, lodged onto two
rocks! Not exactly a great angle for loaded canoes in rapids. When
we extricated ourselves, we were going backwards! We always say,
that we have never tipped, and we were working hard to make sure our
actions in that moment still reflected our words. Somehow we made it
through totally dry.
We
stopped at mile marker 45.7 for lunch and our friend caught a
Northern Pike. We were told that the fishing was good between Mile
marker 46.3 to 41.8. While eating lunch, a little green bird made
our acquaintance, but paid us no attention, hungrily snatching up
caterpillars and insects within inches of us. We came to call it our
weird little green bird.
 |
OUR weird little green bird friend
Photo by Debbie Braaksma |
Continuing
our journey, intense warm southern winds caused large waves to move
against the river current so that we couldn't ease up on our paddling
the last three miles to Earl's Landing (mile marker 41.3). It was
supposed to be our relaxing day of only 10 miles, but with the strong
wind and hidden boulder rapids, it turned out to be an intense day
and we were glad to rest at the landing. Earl's Landing has
beautiful open campsites on green grass under large pines. It
included vaulted toilets, picnic tables, a fire ring and drinking
WATER!
As
we talked to people who were starting off from Earl's Landing, they
commented on how we had “braved” the boulders. Ha, Ha! We guess
we did! New wildlife for our tally included some playful otters and
an osprey. Bald eagle sightings continued daily. People: Zero,
before Earl's Landing. Fresh Northern Pike for dinner was a real
treat.
 |
One of many Bald Eagles
Photo by Debbie Braaksma |
As
we started our third day, we were anxious about facing more wind
while paddling on a large body of water, Lake Trego. We were
imagining being blown across the large expansive lake and fighting
the wind. We paddled through the town and many bridges, even under a
bridge that was so low that we had to squat and duck down into our
canoe to get under it. When we got to the lake, it turned out to be
long and narrow (approximately 6 miles long) with beautiful lakeside
homes. The first part of the lake is dotted with large islands of
grass and the wind was wonderfully at our back, so our fears were for naught. There was one private camping and cabin place in Trego along
the river before we got to the lake, called the Log Cabin.
Https://logcabin-resort.com
They have cabins and camping with showers, electricity, flush
toilets if you are wanting several steps up from primitive camping.
 |
| Low bridge in Trego |
We
stopped at Trego Landing on the southern side of the lake off of
County Road K to stretch our legs. It was not on our map. The lake is
almost entirely private property, so there is very little opportunity
to get out on land.
We
finally saw the dam at the end of the lake. The short portage is on
the right side of the dam. It is a very narrow path through the
reeds. We really wish they had a picnic table for a lunch break. We
ate lunch here anyway, sitting on the ground, near the port-a-johns – the only shade nearby 😏.
 |
| Trego Lake Dam |
After
the dam, the river is easier and we finally left the road noise and
civilization behind. But other canoers seemed to appreciate the
easiness as well so whereas we rarely saw other canoers the first two
days, now they became more frequent, which also meant that more of
the campsites would be occupied.
Each
day the tree colors intensified. The autumn colors were vibrant with
all the red hues imaginable, even florescent. Our responses were
similar to watching fireworks, breath-taking, with ooh!, ahh!, at
every turn.
 |
| Photo by Debbie Braaksma |
We
were headed to Marker 25.3 to camp when some canoeing angels let us
know that it was closed. So we camped at 26.7. A wonderful item we
brought on this trip was the solar shower. A black bag filled with
water which sits on top of the load soaking in the sun so by day's
end a luke-warm shower is possible. So refreshing even in September in the
Northern Woods. Tally: Another bald eagle sighting and many small
ducks that swim with their tail in the water and don't let us get
close enough to identify them. People: We don't tally them after
being spoiled with ZERO.
 |
Campsite 26.7
|
Day
Four:
We
are completely away from any road noise. The river is becoming
deeper and we don't scrape the bottom as often. The bottom
alternates between gravel and pure deep sand. In the sandy bottoms,
groups of River Redhorses are visible, a bottom feeding fish which
can get up to 20 inches long. We glimpsed our first giant sturgeon
in the sandy bottoms. The sturgeon seemed to be as long as our
paddles.
Lunch
was at Howell Landing (Mile Marker 16.9) along with a large group of
Texans. We filled up with fresh water there.
We
camped at 12.5, an overlook over a sharp turn in the river with
grassy islands and beautiful evening views.
 |
Camp 12.5 Photo by Debbie Braaksma
|
Tally:
River redhorses, sturgeon, 3 bald eagles, a great blue heron and green
heron, deer, and a young common water snake.
Day
Five:
Knowing
we just had a few miles left on the river, we rose early in the
morning and were ready to go. The river is wider and deeper with
large expanses of sandy bottoms and less obstacles to maneuver. Lots
of curled silver maple leaves floated on the river, accompanying us,
like little boats. We disembarked at Namekagon Trail Landing (Mile
Marker 4.8). We originally had planned to canoe to Riverside Landing
on the St. Croix, but the Park Service said that the St. Croix was
too low for loaded canoes. It was so good to see our truck sitting
there and we easily loaded it and drove back to Hayward to get the
other car.
Tally:
River Redhorses, three bald eagles including immatures, Canada
Geese.
Heading
off, we were all thirsty and seeing an A&W we stopped for a Root
Beer Float treat! What a great way to end a quiet river
adventure!
Autumn
Water
surface
of the river
reflecting
the lime greens,
neon
pinks and Ruby red
smeared
together
an impressionistic painting
surface
of the river
ripples,
swirls and dips
translated
by the sun
into
black and white mosaic moving patterns
on
the sandy bottom
surface
of the river
sounds
of inexplicable drumming
when
two hidden swans gain flight
glimpsed
for seconds
Oh, their webbed feet, the drums!
surface
of the river
delicately
curled
silver
maple leaf boats
floating,
accompanying us
gently
down the river
We
are never alone.
September
22, 2020
Namekagon
River, WI
